The primary motivation for planning this trip in October was the irresistible allure of witnessing the breathtaking orange hues of the iconic Chinar trees, which are synonymous with Kashmiri autumns. I deliberately chose the last week of October as I found myself fervently wishing for a miraculous snowfall, earnestly praying to experience the magical essence of Kashmir's winters. 

And as the famous saying from the movie Om Shanti Om goes- "Agar kisi cheez ko sacche dil se chaho, tu puri kayanat usse tumse milane ki koshish mein lag jati hai" (If you earnestly wish for something, the entire universe conspires to bring it to you), the morning we left for Kashmir we heard that Gulmarg had received the first snowfall of the season. Our tour operator shared breathtaking images of his surroundings, blanketed in a serene layer of fresh snowfall. The exciting part was that, upon our arrival in Srinagar that day, we were immediately heading to Gulmarg to kick-start our journey.

Similar to every visit to Kashmir, the second trip held a special place in our hearts, as this time around, we eagerly embraced the touristy activities we had skipped during our initial visit. However, our journey encountered a minor hiccup at the outset due to a decision by our tour operator.

Given that Khursheed bhai, our driver from the first trip, had provided us with exceptional service, treating us like family, proactively taking care of mom  and ensuring our comfort throughout our travels in even the most remote areas of Kashmir, it was only natural to choose him as our driver for the second trip. Despite our insistence, the tour operator seemed hesitant, expressing a desire to avoid reliance on a specific driver. After my persistent requests, he reluctantly agreed to arrange for Khursheed bhai to be our driver.

However, halfway to Srinagar, as we were boarding our connecting flight from Delhi, I received a message from the tour operator, informing us that his brother would be our driver this time, citing the need for a better 4x4 drive due to the ongoing snowfall. It became evident that this decision was an attempt to eliminate driver preference, causing an initial lack of trust that led to challenges with the new driver in the initial days of the trip.

As the journey progressed, the issues gradually resolved, and we managed to salvage the overall experience. Nevertheless, the younger driver lacked the patience and warmth that Khursheed bhai had provided, leaving us with a lingering appreciation for the unique bond we had forged with our original driver.

One positive aspect of our new driver, Adil bhai, was his street-smart nature and a more current awareness of news and events. He also shared some excellent recommendations for food experiences that turned out to be delightful. It's this reason alone that I'm inclined to harbor a forgiving sentiment towards him. So now lets delve straightaway into the food stories from our Trip # 2.

Trip 2 - October end 2022 ( Gulmarg - Pahalgam - Aru Valley - Srinagar )

Rogan Josh (Payam Fast Food & Restaurant)

The foodie in me always wishes for every dish to be memorable on my trips. This time kick started the trip with a amazing gastronomic experience which I was least expecting.

Before boarding our connecting flight to Srinagar from Delhi, we received the exciting news that Gulmarg had experienced its first snowfall the day before. This heightened our anticipation as we were scheduled to stay in Gulmarg that day. Our Air India flight touched down in Kashmir past 1 PM, and by the time we exited the airport, we were super hungry. Our driver for this trip was Adil Bhai, and with the cold damp climate outside, we sought refuge in the warmth of the heated car. We were eager to reach Gulmarg before taking a lunch break, but our hunger won over our will power and we decided to break on the way. About 30 kms from the airport, Adil Bhai made a U-turn on the Srinagar-Gulmarg highway, leading us to a roadside dhaba named Payam Fast Food and Restaurant.

As we arrived and Adil Bhai dropped us off at the parking area, he mentioned that this joint was renowned for its non-vegetarian offerings. It's worth noting for first-timers not to be confused with the vegetarian place of the same name on the opposite side of the road. If traveling from Srinagar to Gulmarg, the restaurant will be on your right, requiring a U-turn to reach. If coming from Gulmarg towards Srinagar, the restaurant will be on your left.

Externally, the place had a charming ambiance with greenery, trees, and ample parking, evident from the number of cars already parked. Inside, however, it was unpretentious—a simple arrangement of tables and chairs, and the place was fully occupied. Fortunately, as we entered, a table became available, and we were seated. Sharing the table with another couple, we quickly glanced at the menu. Though their menu had Wazwan mentioned just like any restaurant in Kashmir, but I was not in a mood for wazwan given my last experience in Gurez. So we just asked one of the waiters what can be served quickly.  He suggested rogan josh would be quick so we just ordered it without much afterthought. 

The service seemed a bit slow, causing initial concern about the food quality. However, when our Rogan Josh was served with hot roti, our reservations vanished. The fiery red hue of the Rogan Josh, a signature characteristic, was immediately noticeable. The taste surpassed expectations – slow-cooked mutton, perfectly seasoned, tender meat falling off the bone, and a medley of delightful Kashmiri spices (fennel, ginger, cardamom, etc.) creating a flavorful gravy. It was an unexpected delight, arguably one of the best Mutton Rogan Josh experiences in all my trips to Kashmir, surpassing even the one at the famous Ahdoos in Srinagar.

After savoring every bite, we were left wanting more, but the only drawback was the restaurant's pricing which was on the higher side. The Rogan Josh, which included four pieces of mutton, came to around 649 rupees. Despite not trying anything else, the place is reputed for its various Kashmiri preparations, making it a must-visit on this route, especially if you are a large group and can indulge in their full Wazwan to sample every dish.

Meal at a Local Home (Khursheed Bhai's home)

You might be pondering how to arrange a meal at a local's home, especially if you're a tourist. I agree it can be a challenging prospect, particularly during your first visit to the valley when you don't have any connections. However, it's not an insurmountable task. Kashmiri people are inherently friendly and hospitable, surprising you with their warmth in a matter of minutes. If you're fortunate, much like we were, your driver for the trip might extend an invitation to their home for a meal. If such an opportunity arises, seize it without hesitation; otherwise, you'll miss out on a uniquely personalized experience of sharing food with the locals in the traditional manner.

As I previously mentioned, we only learned about the driver switch once we were on the aircraft. It turns out that Khursheed bhai also received a similar surprise on his end; upon reaching the tour operator's office, he was informed that his services were not required for the trip. The original plan involved Khursheed bhai picking us up from the airport and then taking us to his home for lunch. We had even asked him to cook Kahsmiri Haak for us. For this visit to Kashmir, we had brought gifts for his family and kids, knowing we would be visiting his home. However, all our plans took an unexpected turn with the change in the driver.

Upon reaching the airport, I briefly connected with Khursheed bhai and learned his side of the story. At that point, I didn't have the heart to inquire about lunch plans, and we proceeded to meet our new driver, Adil bhai. However, after savoring the delicious Rogan Josh at Payam, I received a call from Khursheed bhai, sounding upset. Adil bhai had informed him while checking our coordinates that we had stopped at some restaurant for lunch. Khursheed bhai was quite agitated, wondering why we had chosen an alternative when the original plan was to have lunch at his home. It took a while to calm him down after assuring him that we still intended to visit him.

Now faced with a dilemma, we were already full, but Khursheed bhai was adamant about us having food at his home. The only option left was to try and eat as much as we could at his home, aiming to salvage the situation. It was at this moment that I realized how seriously Kashmiri people take their hospitality.

So then we headed straight towards Tanmarg where Khursheed bhai's home is. Tanmarg is situated at a distance of 30 min from Gulmarg. The more we progressed towards Tanmarg we could feel the mercury drop, no wonder it was snowing in Gulmarg. Upon our arrival at the Tanmarg market, Khursheed bhai awaited us, offering a warm welcome adorned with a subtle blend of both awkwardness and sadness stemming from the unexpected change in plans that prevented him from driving us this time. Nevertheless, he invited us to follow his car to his home.

Tanmarg, I soon realized, possessed its own unique beauty – sweeping undulating landscapes, tall pine trees interspersed throughout, and scattered wooden houses that resembled scenes from a foreign country. As we neared his home, Khursheed bhai directed us to disembark from the car. The remaining journey involved a brief walk across a small bridge spanning a nallah, followed by a stroll along the nallah's edge to reach a wooden gate. Descending a set of steps down a steep incline eventually led us to a two-story building, Khursheed bhai's home.

Since it was winters so the tiny kitchen garden didn't have any fresh produce growing. Khursheed bhai's wife emerged with their shy children hiding behind her, extending a warm welcome. Inside, we were ushered into their wooden sitting room adorned with wall-to-wall traditional carpeting. Soon, the rest of the household joined us in the sitting room: Khursheed bhai's mother, the matriarch of the home, along with two of his brothers, their wives, and children. The room suddenly came alive, particularly with the infectious energy of Khursheed bhai's mother, a very jovial person who spoke the best Hindi among all present. She captivated us with numerous stories, while the daughters-in-law swiftly prepared food. Despite my hope for a modest serving, I was aware that when a Kashmiri invites you into their home, the feast is bound to be anything but limited. My assumptions proved to be right - we were presented with a spread featuring fresh haak saag, fried potatoes, rajma, cauliflower with potatoes, beans subzi, steamed rice, roti, and salad. There was no escaping the hearty meal, as everyone eagerly looked at us. Although I initially questioned our capacity to eat, the delectable taste of each dish erased any doubts, and we found ourselves indulging in more, even though we were already full from the previous meal. The standout items were the haak saag, stealing the spotlight, followed closely by the cauliflower. We thanked our hosts wholeheartedly for the amazing meal and mealtime stories. The meal was followed by photos with their family and we gave gifts to the kids. After spending some more time we left, Khursheed bhai and his wife came to see us off. That day we left his home with both our tummy and hearts full. 

Dry Bhel & Kahwa (Gulmarg Phase 1 - Kongdoori)

Bhel is a is a popular Indian street food snack. Most state in India have a specific version of bhel as per their culture and preferences. The standard Bhel is made from puffed rice, sev (crispy chickpea noodles), chopped vegetables like tomatoes and onions, various chutneys (such as tamarind and mint chutney), and spices. In Bengal we have fresh chopped cucumber, fresh coconut slices, peanuts and a drizzle of mustard oil to jazz things up. But all over the country it is one of the most loved snacks. Now why am I giving this gyan on bhel? That is because on our second trip to Kashmir I found a super yummy bhel being sold at one of the most unexpected places and this story is about it.

As you already have read that we started our Trip 2 in Kashmir with Gulmarg. So after that scrumptious meal at Khursheed bhai's home we headed straight to Gulmarg. On the Tanmarg-Gulmarg route, there is a section characterized by numerous S bends, each adorned with a number of beautiful trees. Despite it being the late stages of autumn, we were delighted to encounter the mustard and red-hued leaves, presenting a spectacle reminiscent of the vibrant foliage scenes one might expect to witness in foreign countries during the autumn season. As the journey progressed and we gained height, the first hints of a winter magic started to unravel. The air became crisper, and we got the first glimpse of a pristine layer of snow blanketing the sides of the road. Approaching Gulmarg, the scenary became more dramatic- a scene straight out of a Harry potter movie - everything was covered in a soft, powdery snow blanket. The trees, once clad in evergreen foliage, now stood as enchanting silhouettes against the snowy backdrop wearing long white capes. Pockets of fog billow around us enhancing the magical aura of the surroundings. The child inside me felt ecstatic looking at this winter wonderland. As we entered Gulmarg we could see the entire meadow grassland covered with snow, a cinematic experience that can only be experience with the naked eye. That evening we just rested in our hotel still marveling at the beautiful weather. 

The next morning we reached the Gondola Station super early ( we were the second group in the line) and there was hardly a couple of families. We got ourselves a guide kind of reluctantly but later on we found him rather useful as he was carrying all our stuffs  bags, cameras, jackets etc. and we could roam around hands free. but not only that if you have a senior citizen travelling with you, then taking  a guide is a great option as they also take care of the senior citizens in navigating through the snow. We reached phase 1 and then made way to Phase 2 immediately since we knew that during winters the weather in the higher reaches were unpredictable. And if the visibility reduces they usually stop the lifts to Phase 2. So we wanted to be there bright and early and enjoy the nice sunny weather. It was a very good decision as when we stepped out at Phase 2, we were the first batch of people there who stepped into the first snow of the season. The experience was akin to stepping onto the untouched surface of the moon, leaving behind our footprints in the pristine snow. After spending a good hour and a half we made back our way to Phase 1. 

We were feeling a little cold and hungry after being at 14000 feet. As we came out of the Gondola station, we saw a couple of folks selling tea and bhel. Finding a seller selling bhel at 8500 feet was something I had never envisioned. So we had to experience it. We ordered kahwa and bhel for all three of us. I think it was one of the best food decisions we made. The Kahwa was simply out of the world. The uncle selling kahwa said everyday he will prepare kahwa at home and bring it to Phase 1. The best thing was that after we had the kahwa , uncle asked us to give back the paper cups and he put them in a bag he was carrying. he said it was to ensure no one was littering the place. We were so touched with this simple man's consciousness about the environment where as some of the tourists who are much more educated and well off than this man didn't hesitate to litter anywhere and everywhere. 

The bhel was also superb. The crunchy puffed rice with the assortment of spicy masalas was just the thing we needed in that cold. If you ever happen to be in Gulmarg Phase 1, try out both of these items.

After having bhel and kahwa we had gone for a sledge ride and a snowmobile ride. The idea of riding a sledge has always captivated me, likely influenced by my readings of Archie comics, where characters would play in the snow on a sledge. Although the sledges in Gulmarg are not extravagant, the experience is still worthwhile. A modest wooden sledge, guided by a person pulling it across the snow, invites you to simply sit back and enjoy. Initially, witnessing the effort required to pull people across the snow made me hesitant about taking a ride. However, the sledge owners were persistent in coaxing us. Since not many people were opting for this activity, with most choosing snowmobile rides, we decided to go for the sledge ride, considering it a gesture to support the small business owners. The sledge dropped us off at the snow mobile counter and we got our tickets. The snow mobile ride was pretty dramatic. Since there was a good snow cover over the hill top, the snow mobiles zoomed across the snow maneuvering over uneven terrain and took us to a hilltop where we got a fabulous view of the entire Phase 1 and it also gave us some great photo opportunity. After all this adrenaline rush we felt hungry as it was already lunch time. There are quite a few shacks in Phase 1 for food. Towards the rear, there are residences with kitchens, and in front of them, there are makeshift covered areas with seating arrangements. Opting for Ramzana Dhaba Restaurant, one of the bustling spots, we found a comfortable spot where ample sunlight streamed through, providing warmth to our cold hands. We ordered a plate each of chicken chowmein and mutton pakoda. The prices were a tad expensive, Rs 300 for each dish, but given the location you cant complain much. We sat there chatting for a while and watching tourists around. We could see that slowly cloud cover was coming over the Phase 2 peak which meant the weather was getting bad at the top. 

Soon the piping hot pakodas were served. The amount was god enough to be shared between two people. Bite sized pieces of succulent mutton dipped in a batter of chickpea and spices, deep fried and then some tangy chat masala sprinkled on top - I never imagined mutton pakodas could taste so good! It was a very simple dish but packed a punch. The mutton was deliciously soft which was a big plus. It actually justified the price tag. The chicken chowmein was like any hakka chowmein but it was also good and very filling.  Overall both dishes were great at this restaurant, no wonder it was a clear crowd pleaser. We were so full after the meal that we could have fallen asleep right away if we were inside the hotel room. 

Following the delectable meal, it was time for us to make our way back. Upon reaching the gondola station for the descent, the Apharwat peak (Phase 2) had become entirely shrouded in clouds, and the temperature had noticeably dropped even at Phase 1. We bid a fond farewell to Phase 1, cherishing the memories of the fantastic and joy-filled day we had experienced.

Apple Juice  & Apple Orchard Experience (On srinagar-pahalgam road, Fresh & Fine Apple juice point -first shop towards Pahalgam)

After staying in Gulmarg for 2 days we headed to Pahalgam. As we left Gulmarg there were no traces of snow anymore on the highway or towards Pahalgam. We had already told our driver to stop at an apple orchard to experience what it is like. He stopped by the first shop that comes when you are travelling from Gulmarg to Pahalgam.

The shop is owned by a mid aged couple. The lady is so fair and pretty her cheeks look like freshly picked apples! She smiled and posed with us for some photos. Most of the apple orchards have a shop where they sell apple juice and pickles and then take the tourists for a apple orchard trip.

We ordered two glasses of fresh apple juice and the lady helped us taste some of the pickles and jams available. Everything tasted unique and awesome. We opted for the apple pickle and nadru pickle. The man then led us to the orchard. It was a couple of mins walk to the back of the shop and we never expected it to be such a large orchard. We stepped into the orchard through a rickety wooden door.

The orchard framed by the breathtaking backdrop of the distant mountains, offers a captivating scene of lush greenery and bountiful apple-laden trees. Our host led us through the orchard. We could also see some brinjals and other vegetable patches at the entrance of the orchard.

As we ambled through the orchard, we could feel the air is infused with the sweet fragrance of ripe apples, which heightened the sensory experience. Approaching the heart of the orchard, we witnessed a hive of activity as locals meticulously sorted and packaged the freshly harvested apples. There were tons of apple stacked on the ground looking like small hills themselves. The process of packing unfolds with a rhythmic precision that reflects years of expertise passed down through generations. Each apple is carefully inspected for quality, size, and ripeness before being neatly packed into paper cartons.

Engaging in conversation with the locals, we gained insights into the intricacies of apple cultivation, learning about the nuances of different apple varieties, the significance of proper sorting, and the artistry involved in packaging. The locals, with their warm hospitality, shared anecdotes about the challenges and joys of orchard life, offering a glimpse into the close-knit community that thrives on this land. Our host offered us a few of the apples to taste and they were delicious.  We departed the apple orchard with a basket of freshly picked apples at a very competitive rate.

Once back in the shop we saw how the apple juice was made. The juice was absolutely divine. The mildly cool weather and the sweet juice was just a magnificent combo. We thanked the hosts for the experience and then started for our journey towards Pahalgam.

Visiting the apple orchard in Kashmir becomes not just a journey through nature's bounty but a cultural immersion, where the beauty of the landscape is intertwined with the warmth of the people and the richness of their stories.

Food at Homestays

What is the best way to experience the culture of a place? I believe its through their food. And what is the best way to taste local food? Of course at a local's home! Kashmir is no exception in this matter. If you cant manage to get yourself invited to a local's home for a meal, at least book yourself in some of the beautiful and quaint homestays in the offbeat locations of Kashmir to taste some of the most rustic meals. We had one such experience at Aru Valley. Now usually people would not prefer to stay back in Aru overnight. The tour agents make you think there is nothing in the Aru valley to stop overnight. But if you are a nature lover I would highly recommend to stay the night at this beautiful tiny town of Aru. After the morning bustle of tourists from Pahalgam when everyone departs, you will practically have the whole place to yourself. Walk around this sleepy little town without any fear. Me and my mom walked around the place during the evening and even got invited to a couple of local's home to have tea. At one such local's home we saw the newly wedded daughter in law who was getting ready to visit her home post marriage. The entire household ladies came together and helped her get ready. Even I helped her apply eyeliner. So that's how from complete strangers within minutes the locals make you feel at home and part of their family. We spent a lot of time there talking to ladies of all ages, we got offered the best walnuts we had in entire Kashmir. My mother wanted a rubber band for her hair which we couldn't get in Aru, so one of the ladies gave a scrunchie to her without any money in return. After the eventful evening we headed back to our hotel which felt more like a homestay. The dinner was absolutely homely, cooked by the owner's son. No overpowering